BY JAMES
KIRCHICK
The massive,
red-stone headquarters of the Communist Party of Bohemia and Moravia (KSCM) --
named after the two main regions of the Czech Republic -- is located on
Prague's Street of Political Prisoners, just across from the capital's decayed
art nouveau train station. The road was named in 1946 -- the very year that the
Communists won a plurality in a democratic election -- in honor of resistance
fighters imprisoned by the Nazis during World War II. The Gestapo had located
its headquarters on this same street, in a massive building once owned by a
prominent Jewish family. So it is that the twin horrors of Nazi and communist
oppression continue to haunt this corner of the Czech capital.
When I suggest
to Jiri Dolejs, KSCM vice chairman and member of Parliament, that the location
of the party's headquarters on a street named after political prisoners is a
grim irony, he chuckles and admits that there is an "obvious
paradox." The communist regime that ruled Czechoslovakia from 1948 until
the peaceful 1989 Velvet Revolution interned more than 250,000 political
prisoners. The most famous, playwright Vaclav Havel, was elected the first
president of post-communist Czechoslovakia. When Havel passed away last
December at age 75, a spontaneous crowd descended upon Prague's central
Wenceslas Square to erect an impromptu vigil; the candles would remain there
for an entire month. For a brief moment, the world's attention focused on the
heroic philosopher king and his legacy of nonviolent resistance to communist
totalitarianism.














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