Egypt is perched
on the precipice of chaos
by JUDITH MILLER
The Cairo subway
was one of Hosni Mubarak’s proudest achievements. Built at a cost of several
billion dollars in the late 1980s, it reflected Egypt’s ancient civilization
and modern Egypt’s national pride. Air-conditioned in summer, quiet as a
pharaoh’s tomb, the subway was well-lit and beautifully appointed. Display
boxes of ancient Egyptian artifacts lined its platforms. A special police unit
kept the stations clean, safe, and graffiti-free.
Then came the
Egyptian revolution in January and February 2011. Today, the subway that transports
roughly 4 million passengers a day throughout this vast city of roughly 17
million is a wreck. The tile walls of its central hub, Tahrir Square—the
epicenter of the protests that forced Mubarak from power—are chipped and
filthy. Its platforms are strewn with litter. A main passageway from the
platform to the square has been dark for weeks; no one has changed the
burned-out bulbs. There are no policemen in sight. The passageways stink.
The subway is a
metaphor for post-revolutionary Egypt. The square that symbolized the
revolution is now occupied by riffraff and protestors who assemble periodically
to show the government that the people remain in control. Traffic around the
Middle East’s largest public square has been diverted.
While Cairo may
still be safer than Chicago, or even New York, Egyptian women, for the first
time in memory, fear shopping or taking cabs at night. Cairo’s police, blamed
for the deaths of protesters and unhappy with their pay, working conditions,
and lack of respect, sit in their precinct houses, refusing to provide security
that Egyptians once took for granted. Tourists have vanished, depriving Egypt
of a vital source of jobs and hard currency. Unemployment has risen from 9.8
percent in 2010 to 13 percent today. Inflation is officially 8.7 percent,
though more like 9.5 percent, or even higher, for food and basic commodities,
say economists. Even these figures are misleading, since an estimated 40
percent of Egypt’s economy is “black” or informal, unregulated by and
unreported to the government, according to Hazem el-Beblawi, an economist who
served as deputy prime minister under the army’s unpopular transition
government in 2011. Beblawi, a strong advocate of free-market liberalism who
resigned his post that year, accusing the army of taking Egypt in the “wrong
direction,” says youth unemployment probably tops 19 percent. Egypt, he
estimates, has less than its officially claimed $13.5 billion in hard-currency
reserves (versus $36 billion before the revolution). “Egypt imports roughly $60
billion worth of goods and services,” he says. “It exports under $25 billion.”